LEH

LADAKH CALLING – A MEMOIR

The year was 1984. I had just about two years of service, and was still just a ‘learner’ in my profession. One day, on a cold September morning, while supervising an ‘outdoor’ training for my juniors, my boss landed there. Naturally, the first feeling was of a stress – how to explain and brief the proceedings of the day. To my relief, he seemed preoccupied with some other matter. He went around the training area, and gave the much-cherished comment – Good. Then he took a seat and offered one to me.

His opening words were – have you read your horoscope this week? Frankly speaking, at my age (then), such matters were the last to figure. I, even now, rarely glance over such write-ups. Obviously, my answer was a bewildered ‘No’. No further queries were thrown and no explanation give. I was ordered to go and meet ‘his boss’ in the evening. All I could mutter was Yes Sir. After that he left.

That evening, a confused youngster reached the super boss’s place with a notepad and a pen in hand – to jot down all the words that are darted at him (the whole day was spent going over my activities of the past month – in apprehension). I was ushered into the living room, where I found the big boss in conference with his staff – was I to get a dressing down in front of all these stern faces! Anyway, one didn’t have much option, as such after the customary salutation one braced for the arrows. After a few ‘never ending’ seconds the old man acknowledged my salutations and said – ‘good you came (as if I had choices). Tomorrow come for breakfast with a small bag packed with your warm clothing. We are going to a cold place for a fortnight or so – and don’t forget your sunglasses. See you tomorrow’. Believe me, that young man in his 20’s walked out of the room, utterly confused.

Back, in the comfort of my ‘abode’ I gave a call to my boss, briefing him of the ‘happenings’. His golden words were ‘ok fine’, before the line went dead. I went over a quiet dinner, and went to my room. Thankfully one had a small rucksack which was dutifully packed – with the sunglasses placed in the outer pocket. I was up-and-about around sunrise and the first one to gobble some egg and toast. Life had educated me that one doesn’t sit for a formal meal, hungry.

At ‘his’ place, I was greeted by the staff and my bag less the sunglasses were placed in one of the two multi-colored vehicles. Surprisingly, the breakfast was least formal, and one could savor all the dishes – thanks to my young appetite. It was on the table, when I was informed that we (two of us) are going to drive around the complete Ladakh region, on a reconnaissance mission. The objective being to explore the feasibility to employing Mechanised Forces (Army) in that area. He was speaking about lots of other things and giving the names of the places – some I comprehended and some just flew by. I was also given a sophisticated looking camera with a bag full of unexposed rolls. One of the staff gave me a quick brief as to how to use the camera.

After a quick check of our baggage, we hopped on to the vehicles and tally-ho. I was told to take the wheel of our vehicle with the boss next to me and the driver on the back-seat. They must have done a cross-check on my driving acumen – and I think, throughout the mission, I hardly gave him much chance to regret.

The first day was uneventful, barring a few stops, when one was told to measure the width of the motorable area of the road, checking the angle and steepness of the turns and bends, overhead hang of the rocks etc. We reached Mandi by late evening. After a quick wash and change, I was called by him in the sitting room of the guest-house. There the maps were spread and the other local officers began the briefing cum discussion. All my excitement of enjoying a fully-paid holiday soon vanished in thin air, as I got sucked into the discussion and found myself taking down notes in my own ‘shorthand format’. Soon I realised that henceforth it was to be mostly business with just a wee bit of pleasure. 

The next day we started early (was the SOP) for Manali. I was the first take the wheel but soon we got into a mode of rotating our seats – for one had to get down frequently for measurements and recording the details. In those days the road was much narrow with little space on the sides. The bridges too were old with limited load bearing capacity. Our templet was programed for heavy load carriers including transporters. On our way we visited the hydel project, existing helipad, airstrip, the road construction and maintenance establishment etc. By the time we made it to Manali it was almost dinner time.

By now, we all had got the hang of the game. Start early, do the measurements and record the details both in the notepad and camera, before reaching the next night halting place. After Rohtang the degree of driving difficulty kept on increasing. The night abodes also varied from tents along the river to small huts. Spending a cold breezy night in a snow tent was a novel experience – never had imagined that a small lamp could give so much warmth.

And thus, the reconnaissance carried on at a self-determined pace. Jumping out of the vehicle, doing the measurements with the bare minimum equipment, jotting it down (including the observations by the boss) became like a habit. This daily routine taught me to respect and appreciate the teams of Survey Department, whom we often see on the roads, silently going about their task.

Finally, we reached Leh where the Boss went to meet the his superior to brief him on the outcome of the reconnaissance. This continued for a period of few days. One day we got lucky to be invited to witness a friendly Polo Match between two local teams. It was quite a fast-paced game, played in an enclosed area. Was spellbound by the riding skills of the riders and their mounts. Also, since we were seated in the VIP encloser, my young appetite was adequately looked after with the local delicacies – additional bonus.      

After Leh, the roads turned much more driver-friendly. We continued with our routine of measuring etc. and after a few days made it to Srinagar. Here, again we took a mandatory halt for a few days, before heading back to our duty station.

This surprise trip around Ladakh left an everlasting memory with me. The importance and the enormity of the task dawned on me only after I had returned. I am ever thankful to God and the seniors who selected me for this important task. Today, when one hears of all the tunnels being constructed in that region, roads and bridges being re-done and deployment of forces etc. – one feels proud to have contributed towards the mission in whatever miniscule manner it might be.

Another effect that this trip had on me was, that I desired to do it again. Destiny was kind to us, as in 2015 summers, I got a chance to do it again, with my wife as my companion. This time we planned it from Srinagar side and wished to complete the circuit at Manali – but unfortunately, because of delay in opening-up of the Manali sector, we had to return from short of Chushul. During that trip, I was pitted against one of the worst weather conditions, while traversing Zozila Pass. Had to challenge all my driving skills for those 2-3 hours – I still consider it ‘The Toughest’ for me. My companion to had to undergo a freezing experience, for she was perforce nominated as the windshield wiper. Barring this experience, driving was pleasure. The roads are much-much better, as compared to 1984, which gives ample opportunity to soak-in the magnificence that nature offers. If you are taking this trip, then don’t rush through it. Allow yourself enough opportunities to dip your toes in the icy-cool water, spend some time just sitting on a rock and admiring the view. Stop by at a tea stall, not only for a nice cup of tea but also for a short chit-chat with the locals and other travelers. But be mindful of the time and distance. While returning from Diskit, we started a bit late (at sunset), and soon found that mine was the only vehicle on the road. Its an earie feeling and one begins to imagine a lot – on these roads you will find mangled body of vehicles quite frequently. My fears soon came true, when short of The Pass, we found a huge piece of rock bang in the center of the road. It would have meant that we were to spent the cold night all alone, on the road – but destiny showed some mercy by sending another vehicle with few people. All these desperate people joined in to shake the rock a bit, so as to allow our vehicles to scrape through.

During 1984, Leh was just a small barren township, with limited green cover. Oxygen level, as compared to plains was less (may be lesser than now), but still the atmosphere was pristine. Unfortunately, now, development has taken over. Roads are clogged with smoking vehicles – and ugly signs of rampant development are visible all around. The ground where we witnessed Polo players jostling for the ball has turned into a ‘car-parking’ for the shoppers. These and such many more signs of development troubles you, but then I presume, we have to take them in stride, in the larger interest of the society!

In my opinion, Ladakh is a unique region, much different than any other region in India. It needs to be cared for in a much different manner than other hilly areas. I am quite confident that the concerned authorities are aware of this fact and are working in accordance. Still the ask is humongous. We the visitors, must contribute our bit by not littering the area and keeping it clean.